Vanoise National Park

History of the Vanoise National Park

Ibex (Bouquetin) The Vanoise National Park was the first of its kind in France. Created on 6th July 1963 it was primarily conceived as a protected zone for the endangered ibex. The ibex, or bouquetin, population suffered greatly from the 16th century onwards when guns became more widespread for hunting and so under pressure from the French Alpine Club and the Touring Club de France, amongst others, a national reserve was created. There was some disagreement over whether the focus of the park should be more on animals than humans and so two zones were created; the inner zone, a highly protected sanctuary for wildlife and plants, and the peripheral zone, an area where small villages and hamlets could exist alongside nature without fear of losing their culture and way of life to the changes of the modern world. However, the history of the Vanoise National Park stretches back much further than the 1960’s. Cup shaped niches carved into the rocks as high up as 3000m suggest that the area was inhabited by humans during the Neolithic era. The purpose of these niches remains unknown but archaeologists have found a plethora of other signs of pre-historic communities – carvings of Christian crosses, human figures, animals, tools and so on. One of the most impressive examples of Neolithic civilisation is the Pierre aux Pieds (Rock of Feet), which has been classified as an ancient monument. This enormous piece of schist rock is engraved with 82 small feet, the size of which suggests that they represent women, children or just a race of very small humans. The direction of the feet has led to speculation that the carvings may have been carried out by a race that worshipped the rising sun or prayed to the glacial summits for mercy and protection. There are other examples of past communities to be seen such as the possible medieval Stone of the Saints, the Rock of the Masks and the Stone of the Devil. Indications of passage across the Alps (paves paths, low stone walls, crosses erected at paths, etc) suggest that people have been trying to pass through this region since the Iron Age. The population of the area continued to grow and communities developed due to the abundance of minerals. During the Bronze Age copper was plentiful, from the 15th century iron was used and in the 17th the discovery of silver bearing lead created new mines. Calcium and gypsum rocks were quarried and were used for building chalets in the alpine pastures. More recently the park was created just 41 years after the creation of the Gran Paradiso National Park in 1922. As they share a border (the Gran Paradiso lies in the Italian mountains) they were twinned in 1972, making them the largest protected site in Europe measuring a mighty 1250km².

last updated 17-Jun-2008

Geography of the Vanoise National Park

Aussois in the Peripheral Zone As previously mentioned the Vanoise National Park stretches across much of the Tarentaise and Maurinenne valleys all the way to the Italian border, where it joins up with the Gran Paradiso National Park. It is in the Savoie department of France in the Rhone Alps region. The park consists of 2 zones; one central and one peripheral. The central zone is highly protected and maintains its impressive population of flora and fauna by imposing strict regulations on all park users. The peripheral zone contains 28 villages, in which the culture and lifestyle of the region is preserved. A total of 5 nature reserves border the central zone, protecting a variety of eco-systems. They are: Champagny and Grand Sassière in Tignes, Bailletaz in Val d’Isère, Plan de Tueda in Méribel and Haut des Villaroger near to Les Arcs.

last updated 17-Jun-2008

Flora of the Vanoise National Park

The rare twinflower The plant life in the Vanoise National Park is both diverse and beautiful. As well as the alpine favourites such as edelweiss, saxifrage and mountain primrose you will also find a number of eastern and southern species as well as arctic-alpine remnants of the ice age. The Vanoise National Park is one of the only places in France where you can see the delicate and scarce twinflower, an indicator species of ancient woodland that likes to grow in the mossy areas at the foot of spruce and pine trees. The diversity of the park’s plant life is due to the various soil and rock types that make up the landscape as well as the different exposures to weather and light that the park enjoys. The park can be divided up by altitude and you can expect to find very different vegetation and wildlife at each level. The Nival level is above 3000m, here little grows and the landscape is dominated by glaciers and snow capped peaks. Edelweiss The Alpine level is between 2000 and 3000m; above the tree line winter snowfall may linger well into the summer months. There is much rocky terrain where plants other than lichen find it hard to survive. The alpine lawns however are often ablaze with colourful plants such as arnica and black vanilla orchid and this is where you are most likely to see edelweiss. To find edelweiss you need to be up high - it usually grows at between 2000 and 2900 meters and often in the most inaccessible rocky places. It blooms between July and September and the 'woolly' appearance of the petals is due to lots of tiny white hairs. Edelweiss is a rare and protected plant, so if you are lucky enough to see some just take a photo and leave them alone - do not pick them. The Subalpine level is between 1500 and 2000m and is where plants such as rhododendron (alpenrose), blueberry (myrtille), juniper and many shrubs grow, as well as coniferous forests containing larch, arolla and mountain pine. Spruce is more likely to be found at lower altitudes. Lady's Slipper The lowest level of the park is the Montane level, which lies between 800 to 1500m and is almost entirely outside the central zone. It consists of dense forests of beech and fir trees, which favour the damper warmer conditions of the lower ground. If you are very lucky you may see some Lady’s Slipper nestling amongst the roots of the larger trees. This brightly coloured orchid has been picked almost to extinction and has been a nationally protected species since 1982. Being in the peripheral zone the appearance of the Montane level has been influenced by human interference over the years; the hayfields that have been created by farmers are now a haven for a variety of animals and plants such as the thistle-like Alpine Eryngo and a multitude of small mammals, insects and reptiles. One of the aims of the park is to preserve and nurture these hayfields, as old farming methods are being abandoned to modern techniques and threatening the delicate eco-system that has developed over the years.

last updated 17-Jun-2008

Fauna of the Vanoise National Park

All of the creatures most commonly associated with the Alps are well represented in the Vanoise National Park – chamois, marmots, ibex (also known as bouquetin) and eagles can all be seen if you are lucky (and quiet!) enough. Other animals to keep an eye out for include alpine hare, snow voles, pine martens, alpine newts, grass snakes, frogs, natter jacks, squirrels and foxes. Of the feathered variety you may see golden eagles, bearded vultures, eagle owls, ptarmigans, black grouse, rock thrush and many other rare species. The three-toed woodpecker has only ever been seen in Savoie and Haute-Savoie, so is definitely one for the keen twitcher’s checklist! The park’s wildlife stats are impressive to say the least: 2000 ibex; the largest population in France making up a third of the total national population 5500 chamois 120 different species of breeding birds 20 pairs of resident golden eagles the park’s insects represent over 80% of the insects to be found in the whole of France European Alpine Chamois One of the highlights for many visitors is spotting a chamois or a marmot – the two most symbolic animals of the Alps. Since the creation of the park as a protected the area the chamois population has rocketed from 3000 to 12 000! This does not guarantee a sighting by any means though, as the chamois is a shy creature and likes to keep a wary eye out for danger. They are most likely to be spotted early in the morning and at dusk, as this is when they tend to graze for food. They live high up and are good rock hoppers; so if you look to the crags above you, you might see a hairy little face gazing back down! A marmot enjoying the sunshine! Marmots are funny creatures that amble around between 1000 and 3000 meters. They look a little like oversized guinea pigs and live in underground burrows called ‘galleries’. They live in large family groups, so if you spot one the chances are there are more of them milling about somewhere nearby. They make a peculiar high pitched whistling noise and like to sunbathe! Species rehabilitation is one of the aims of the park and it is a haven for rare and protected creatures. Ibex numbers have increased literally tenfold, from 200 to 2000 since the creation of the park. The black grouse is another species that the park is trying hard to preserve as it is in real danger of extinction; the rangers monitor habitats and record numbers and are keen to inform and educate visitors to the park about their work. Their research into the wildlife of the park regularly leads to the discovery of new species, and provides a valuable service to the preservation of alpine fauna. The isolated summits provide a perfect habitat for golden eagles and the extremely rare bearded vulture is a regular visitor; the park rangers are hopeful that a breeding pair may make the park their home before too long. In fact, if you are a dedicated birdwatcher, a keen conservationist or just someone who likes to spot a bit of wildlife when they are rambling along the Vanoise National Park is definitely a good place to start.

last updated 17-Jun-2008

Things to Do in the Vanoise National Park

The 360 000 people who visit the Vanoise National Park each year are a diverse bunch ranging from serious alpinists, ramblers, hardcore rock climbers, families with children, adrenaline junkies and day trippers hoping to spot a marmot or two! Hikers enjoying the scenery There is a huge range of activities you can do in the park, as long as you respect the regulations and inform yourself of the rules before you set out. For first time visitors the park is well laid out with specially designed nature trails, sign posted footpaths, information points and the visitor centres. There are 2 visitor centres; one in Plan de Tuéda, at the start of nature trail in Méribel les Allues and another in Termignon-la-Vanoise. Both offer information on the history and current state of the park, as well as visitor advice on where to go and what to see. Entry is free to both centres. There are also a number of tourist offices throughout the park, which are staffed throughout the summer. One of the most well known hikes in the area is the Vanoise Glacier Race; a tour of the refuges of Vanoise Pass, Arpont, Plan-Sec, Orgère, Péclet-Polset and Pêche Rock that generally takes around 4 to 5 days to complete. The actual ‘race’ is a cross country event that takes place every July, but the trail is still a popular hiking route for non-competitors and it renowned for being one of the most beautiful hikes in France. A more family-friendly version is the ‘Glacier Footpath Itinerary’. The marked trail starts at Champagny le Haut and takes about 4 hours to reach Le Grand Plan. Along the way you will learn about the history and geology of the glaciers, the walk is accompanied by a guide book that costs 6€ and can be bought from the information desk at Champagny la Haut or the Glacialis Museum. The Vanoise in full bloom Parts of the famous GR5 and GR55 routes also pass from North to South through the Vanoise National Park; the GR55 is a true endurance hike departing from Chamonix in the Northern Alps and finishing in Menton on the South Coast of France. You don’t need to feel obliged to do the whole thing though! Local walking maps will highlight the sections that pass through Pralognan and the surrounding areas. Parts of the trail may involve some scrambling and there are some strenuous ascents along the way; if you are not an experienced walker you should study the guidebooks carefully before you set off and check that your itinerary is do-able. The landscape of the park changes dramatically as you pass through, so as long a trek as you have the time and the stamina for is always going to be worthwhile. For shorter day hikes you can use the villages of the peripheral zone as a base; there are a number of shorter family hikes that can be undertaken from Villarodin-Bourget, Champagny-en-Vanoise, Val d'Ishre or Pralognan-la-Vanoise. There is a multitude of lakes, meadows, forests and refuges to keep any rambler happy and with over 500km of marked walking trails and 50 mountain refuges you can plan a route to suit any ability. It is always wise to book refuges in advance. The numerous lakes and rivers allow for fishing (ensure that you have the correct permits before setting up), trout is common in these parts. Water sports such as kayaking, rafting and canyoning can also be arranged through local guiding companies. The rivers of Isère and Doron are the two main waterways in the park. A perfect winter scene The many soaring peaks of the Vanoise make this park a magnet for climbers; the highest part of the park summits at 3000m. Some of the must-do ascents for experienced climbers include Les Arcelins, Moriond, Grand-Marchet and the Aiguille de la Vanoise (Vanoise Needle). The activities aren’t just confined to the warmer months; off-piste skiing, ice climbing, snow shoeing and glacier hiking are all popular sports. The nearest ski resorts are Les Arcs, La Plagne, Méribel, Courchevel and Tignes, any of which should be able to provide you with all the equipment and information that you will need. Unless you are experienced and very well acquainted with the area it is highly advisable to take an experienced guide with you on any of these activities – not only will they increase your safety they will also make the trip much more fun with their local knowledge and expertise. Guidelines to Enjoying the Park Do not pick or collect anything from the park – it contains many rare species and has a delicate eco-system No dogs – even on a lead your dog can distress wildlife and leave a mess behind No loud noises – for the sake of the animals and other visitors to the park No paragliding or other air-sports, flying at less than 1000m over the park is forbidden for the tranquility of the animals No camping or bivouacking (only allowed near certain refuges, enquire for details) Leave no rubbish No fires No mountain biking (except on designated trails) Fines are in place for breaking the rules, for more serious offences the park rangers may prosecute.

last updated 18-Jun-2008