First Les Arcs snow report 2017/18 season

There is a thick layer of snow from the very top of Les Arcs all the way down to its lowest point (in Bourg St Maurice). On Sunday afternoon, the official measurements of on-piste depth were 95cm in Arc 1600 and over two metres at 3226 metres altitude! That is unquestionably an excellent way to start the season and, even at this super-early stage, is a decent indication that the ski season will be long and enjoyable. I verified the official figures when attempting to walk across a short piece of off-piste to the toilets near the “2300” lift; my second step disappeared into the snow, the powder was up to my waist and I struggled for five minutes to climb back out.

As mentioned, there has been significant snowfall over the last week and, although Monday morning should see upwards of 10cm of additional snow at all levels, we are forecast clear, sunny days until at least Friday. This could not have been better planned for the opening week. I do not know which supernatural being controls the weather in the Alps, but they have clearly booked a ski holiday in Les Arcs this December.

By the close of play on Sunday afternoon, the majority of lifts were open. As the Les Arcs ski domain is vast (over 200km of marked slopes) it is quite normal for some sectors to be inaccessible during the first weekend. Usually, each day sees the opening of additional sectors, providing early-bird skiers with more-and-more room to explore and enjoy. This year the sheer abundance of snow may have delayed some pistes from opening immediately, but I think that’s what you call “a good problem to have.” As there is undoubtedly plenty of snow and the weather is expected to become clear from Monday afternoon, the lifts which are not operating right now should get going fairly soon. Check our live lift status page for the most up-to-date information.

Notable opening weekend lift closures included Varet and the Aiguille Rouge above Arc 2000. On Sunday, both of these gondolas were open but only to pedestrians (not to skiers/snowboarders). I spoke to the lift operators and they informed me that the huge quantity of recent snow had made it difficult to secure the pistes in that sector. With further snowfall expected on Monday, Varet and Aiguille Rouge would be unlikely to open until Tuesday at the earliest. For the same reason, the Grand Col chairlift was closed over the weekend, as were Comborciere and Clocheret. Below 2000 metres, both Combe and Charmettoger were not running, although the pistes they service were fully accessible via other lifts.

This weekend, I did have the pleasure of riding the massively revamped Pre Saint Esprit lift which, at 2850 metres in length, is the longest chairlift in France. You need not worry about getting bored or cold, however, as the trip takes less than nine minutes, each chair has a pull-down cover and the seats themselves are... wait for it... heated! It is truly a lovely thing and, when combined with the Arcabulle lift, makes getting from the base of the Arc 2000 bowl to the top of the Col de la Chal an absolute pleasure.

In terms of conditions both on- and off-piste, Saturday and Sunday provided undoubtedly the greatest opening weekend’s skiing I have ever experienced. Although frequent snow showers and often negligible visibility on the opening day were arguably adverse conditions, the quantity and availability of powder was astonishing. Also, the pistes had been largely well managed, creating smoother slopes for those skiers who like it less “soft-and-choppy.” Sunday was much clearer, although there was still a cloud hanging around 2000 metres until lunchtime. This means that, though the easily-accessible off-piste has seen some action, it is by no means “tracked out” and there are fresh lines possible in even the most obvious places. A combination of sketchy visibility over the first two days, the fresh snow expected on Monday and those few keys lifts which have not yet opened, should mean we are enjoying fresh powder in a variety of places for the rest of the week.

At every level, the pistes are softer and stickier (so make sure your skis or snowboard has been waxed recently) and, due to the reliable freezing temperatures, the conditions are very consistent at all altitudes and across all resorts. There are no particular hard or icy patches to speak of, although those areas which experience a lot of wind (e.g. L’Arpette peak, the top of Mont Blanc lift) are typically less grippy.

To surmise, the conditions are close to perfect. Come out and play!

Read more from Sam on his blog.